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CUSTODIAN'S GUIDE TO THE PROPER MAINTENANCE OF TERRAZZO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS TO KEEP YOUR CLEAN AND LONG-LASTING
CAUTION: Before deviation from these instructions, contact your local Terrazzo Contractor for advice. ALWAYS KEEP RINSE WATER, MOPS & PAILS CLEAN!
DAILY: SWEEP USING YARN-WICK BRUSH TREAT ED WITH SWEEPING COMPOUND. Hand
work stubborn stains and scuff marks with neutral cleaner diluted in warm water.
WEEKLY: DAMP MOP LIGHTLY SOILED FLOORS WITH NEUTRAL CLEANER. Heavily soiled floors
should be scrubbed with a mechanical buffing machine and neutral cleaner. Mop up residue before it dries with clean water. Allow to dry and buff with a dry brush. (For floors requiring a high luster, apply a thin coat of specially prepared finishing material and buff to bring up sheen.)
NOTE: ALLOW YOUR NEUTRAL CLEANER, ONCE APPLIED TO THE TERRAZZO SURFACE, TIME TO REACT AS DESIGNED TO LOOSEN FOREIGN MATTERS. SEVERAL MINUTES SHOULD BE ADEQUATE, BUT DO NOT ALLOW SOLUTION TO DRY ON THE SURFACE.
ANNUALLY: STRIP ALL OLD DRESSING AND SEALER. RESEAL CLEAN FLOOR. If the floor becomes dull or unsightly do not attempt to refinish or restore it by sanding or grinding. This requires professional attention.
USE ONLY: Specialized products produced to insure proper maintenance of your Terrazzo floors. Many suppliers serving the Terrazzo trade with products of proven reliability are members of the NT.
For any further information or brand names of Maintenance Products contact your local Terrazzo Contractor.
DO'S AND DON'TS FOR TERRAZZO FLOOR CARE
HELPFUL TIPS FOR TERRAZZO MAINTENANCE: Your Terrazzo floor has a minimum of 70 % marble chip density on the surface. It has been ground and polished and sealed with a penetrating solvent-based Terrazzo sealer. This protects your surface from stains, but it is essential that no spillage should be ignored and allowed to soak and dry into the floor. Good
housekeeping procedures require that your floor remain clean. With proper maintenance procedures, your Terrazzo floor should give you ease of maintenance and a lifetime of performance, not to mention the aesthetics.
DO'S
DO ask your installing Terrazzo Contractor to recommend the proper neutral cleaner and sealers to be used on your floor.
DO dust mop your floors daily, this not only picks up the dust, but also the grit tracked into your building. The grit acts as an abrasive on your hard surface floor.
DO scrub your floors a minimum of twice a week where a new Terrazzo floor has been installed for the initial two to three months as the construction dust is still in the air and will eventually be deposited on your floor. After this period once per week, dependent on the amount of foot traffic, should keep your floor clean in appearance. Always rinse your floors well to prevent a buildup of residue of cleaner that could become slippery.
DO use maintenance products designed for Terrazzo.
DO allow your neutral cleaner, once applied to the Terrazzo surface, time to react as designed to loosen foreign matter. Several minutes should be adequate, but DO NOT allow solution to DR on surface.
DON'TS
DON'T use purely surface waxes, or good for everything seal ERs. Employment of such can result in a slippery surface.
DON'T use all purpose cleaners of soaps containing water soluble inorganic or crystallizing salts, harmful alkali or acids. Use of such products could prove harmful to your Terrazzo floor.
DON'T use cheap cleaners or sealers as the majority of your maintenance costs is labor.
DON'T try miracle cleaners or sealers on your floor without getting an opinion on such products from your local Terrazzo contractor.
NOTE: IN THE EVENT THAT YOUR FLOORS GET BADLY SOILED. CONSULT WE DO FLOORS SPECIALIST.
To digress further, a soap is a combination of fatty acid oils and alkaline materials. Detergents, on the other hand, are synthetic products that act in the same general manner as soap, but are most often more effective in their performance. Some of the most popular chemicals used for cleaning Terrazzo are soap rather than a detergent. The makers of these popular soaps have cleverly made their product neutral, but have balanced the alkaline component in such a way that it does not completely react to all of the fatty oils. This is much like the TV ad in which the daughter asks "Mom, where is the bath oil?" and the Mother replies that it is in the soap. When these soaps are used on a floor, they leave a thin film of this UN-reacted fatty oil, which will shine when the floor is buffed after it is dry.
The problem of clouding is created when this film entraps and reacts with the residue of free lime on the floor, causing insoluble calcium scum. Repeating the cleaning procedures with the same materials only adds to the condition. Applying a primer, sealer or wax on top will lock in the scum under a transparent shield. This makes everything worse, for the sealing film must then be removed to expose the source of the problem for corrective treatment. This situation can be prevented or minimized by thorough cleansing of the floor with proper chemicals before any sealer of other film or scum forming surface treatments are used. Nonionic neutral detergents will thoroughly clean a floor without reacting to or combining with any free lime deposit or residue. The preceding relates to preparation of a floor for delivery to the owner, but long range maintenance programs with this type of film-forming soap also have limitations. The oily film never really hardens, so it will continue to trap dust and dirt. The cumulative effect of continuing use of such a material will cause even the most immaculate floor to become dull and lifeless. Detergents leave no oily film or residue to accumulate dirt. Your material suppliers should be able to help you distinguish between soap and detergents. For further information, contact We Do Floors,Llc
RE-CRYSTALLIZATION-REVISTIED
By Dr. Frederick M. Hueston
The following is a reprint of an article I wrote in 1990. I have edited some of the text to bring it up to date. My opinion on this process is still the same as it was in
1990, “re-crystallization” can damage your natural stone or terrazzo, sometimes beyond repair. Most of the damage I have seen since 1990 by this process results from the overuse of the product as well as the lack of trained personnel who apply it.
To answer the problems experienced by customers who had dull and scratched marble. I tried to find the best and most practical solution to the restoration of their marble floors, walls, etc. Since this is a relatively small industry, there weren’t too many good sources.
I did find some self-proclaimed "experts" who introduced me to the idea of "recrystallization" as a safe and easy method of restoring and polishing marble and stone.
They touted it as a time proven process which had its roots in the marble industry in Europe. It was alleged to be safe, easy to apply and was both slip resistant and permanent. In short, it was the perfect solution for most marble restoration and maintenance problems.
Having been raised in the "old" school, I instinctively doubt anything that appears "too good to be true". Experience has taught me that most of those "too good to be true statements" usually turn out to be exactly that!
My business reputation is at stake whenever I recommend or use a product or procedure.
I don't take that responsibility lightly. So, I endeavored to get answers to some specific questions about this "re-crystallization" process (from the systems' promoters).
Question #1
Does the "re-crystallization" process contain waxes?
Crystallization Answer:
No.
Question #2
Does the process allow the stone to breath (transpire)?
Crystallization Answer:
Vague generalizations and evasive replicas.
Question #3
How does "re-crystallization" react with stone?
Crystallization Answer:
Evasive generalizations.
These evasive non-answers surprised me. Perhaps there was something that these crystallization "experts" did not know or did not want me to know.
Though I am in the stone consultation business, my formal education is in Chemistry. I had a natural curiosity about this wondrous process called "re-crystallization". After all, if it worked, it would be great for my business. I decided to do some research on my own. Following is a summary of my research.
TERMS
The term "crystallization" is defined as the process by which a substance takes the form of a crystal structure. Most minerals are crystal shaped. The term "re-crystallization" implies that a substance has been crystallized a second time. In other words, changed from one crystal shape to another.
In geology, re-crystallization takes place under great pressure at high temperatures deep in the earth and over thousands of years. My research showed that the natural recrystallization of minerals such as those found in stone is unlikely to be obtained with the so-called packaged chemical "re-crystallization method" being marketed by a number of companies. We can therefore assume that the term "re-crystallization" is used only as a marketing term.
For the purpose of this article, we will use this term, “re-crystallization”, only as a description of the chemical process that follows.
METHODOLOGY
I obtained Material Safety Data Sheets (required by OSHA for all chemical products) from a good sample of "re-crystallization" product distributors. From them, I learned that all the re-crystallization products contained a fluorosilicate compound. All contained an acid of one type or another and almost all contained varying percentages of waxes and acrylics.
To understand how these ingredients react with marble, one needs to understand the makeup (natural composition) of marble, itself. The main constituent of marble is a compound called Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3). Calcium Carbonate, along with other minerals, make up what we know as marble.
When an acid is dropped on marble it will burn and etch the surface leaving a pitted, dull spot. The reaction (Formula 1) illustrates what happens when an acid and marble come in contact with one another. The bond between the calcium and the carbonate is broken, producing water and carbon dioxide gas and the calcium carbonate is destroyed. In other words, acid destroys marble. All re-crystallization fluid contains acid. If you have any doubts, place a drop of re-crystallization fluid on a piece of marble, wait just 30 seconds and wipe it off. You will find that it has etched.
FORMULA 1
CaCo3 + HCL ---------------Ca+ Co3 + H2O
The main ingredient used in re-crystallization fluid is a group of compounds called flurosilicons. Three types of fluorosilicates can be found in re-crystallization fluids: (1) Aluminum fluorosilicate (2) Magnesium fluorosilicate and (3) Zinc fluorosilicate.
First used in 1883, fluorosilicate compounds were used in an attempt to preserve marble statues that were crumbling. The effects of these
compounds on stone were studied by several researchers and were found to have detrimental effects on the stone.
It was found that fluorosilicates deposit an enamel on the surface of the stone which completely blocks its pores. The stone suffocates, begins to break apart and rot. The results of these studies can be found in the book
Stone Decay and Conservation written by Glovanni G Amoroso and
Vasco Passins---ELSEVIER, Amsterdam, Lausanne, Oxford, New York
1983.
The re-crystallization process uses an acid that attacks the calcium carbonate in the stone (Reaction 1). This reaction destroys the calcium carbonate and releases the calcium ion.
The fluorosilicate compound then attaches itself to the calcium ion forming a new compound (Reaction 2 & 3). This new compound, calcium fluorosilicate forms an imperious film on the surface of the stone, totally blocking its pores.
Marble and Stone FACT: Marble and stone must breathe (transpire). If the pores are blocked, moisture from the slab (condensation, etc.) will be trapped and the stone will begin to break down.
Re-crystallization FACT: The re-crystallization process places an impermeable coating of fluorosilicates on the stone, completely blocking its pores.
Marble and Stone FACT: Acid will destroy marble and stone.
Re-crystallization FACT: All crystallization fluid contains acid.
Based on the preceding facts, I have reached the following conclusion:
The above facts are clear and incontrovertible. What is even more startling are the dozens of marble floors and walls I have seen that have been destroyed by this process.
Along with other responsible stone restoration firms in the industry I urge anyone even thinking about allowing a "crystallization" process to be used, test the proposed products on a marble sample and judge the results for yourself. You will find the rapid deterioration of the marble frightening.
For the names of responsible stone restoration firms, you are invited to write Building Stone Institute, Marble Care and Maintenance Companies, 420 Lexington Ave. New York, New York 10170.
AN OPEN LETTER TO THE PEOPLE IN THE TRADE:
The extensive marketing of restoration methods using "re-crystallization " is a very serious matter for everyone in the industry. The alarming increase in the number of complaints regarding permanently damaged marble and other stone floors and walls is hardly conducive to increased sales and use of our fine products. This damage could have, and should have, been avoided. I urge you to advise all your customers of the potential damage from any of these "re-crystallization" methods being marketed. Now that we know exactly what this so-called "re-crystallization" process is, we can answer the frequently asked question:
Can a floor or wall that has been "re-crystallized" be saved?
Here are some guidelines:
Determine that crystallization has actually been used
First, determine that crystallization has actually been used. For a start, ask the customer.
Some will tell you, others will flatly deny it, and others simply won't know. If the shine on the marble or stone looks wavy (acrylic looking) then you can be fairly sure there is some type of coating on it. It is relatively easy to determine the type of coating. To do this two chemicals are needed: (1) a commercial wax stripper and (2) methyl chloride (wood furniture stripper).
Place a small amount of each chemical on the stone. If the commercial wax stripper removes the film then you are dealing with an acrylic type finish. Simply remove the finish with the stripper before starting the normal restoration or polishing process.
If the commercial stripper does not remove the coating but the methyl chloride does, then you have a urethane based coating. Remove it with methyl chloride or grind it off.
If neither one of these strippers removes the coating, the chances are it has been recrystallized.
Another reliable clue is the presence of swirls on the marble (or other stone). These are caused by the use of steel wool during the re-crystallization machining process.
Before you attempt any polishing or grinding make sure that you have determined the type of coating on the marble (stone). Be aware that there may be more than one coating, possibly an acrylic coating placed on top of a re-crystallization coating, test several areas to be sure.
Determine the extent of the damage to determine if the stone can be saved
If it is discovered that the marble (stone) has been re-crystallized, whether or not the stone can be saved will depend on the severity of the damage. For example. Travertine and Crema Marfil will exhibit damage almost immediately. Other stones, such as granite, will take longer. Still others will not show any apparent damage until the re-crystallized layer begins to wear off. It pays to become familiar with the various types of marbles and other stones.
There are a few general rules to determine the extent of damage.
The higher the CaCO3, the more destructive the re-crystallization will have been.
The greater the number of applications of re-crystallization over a period of time the greater the chance of irreversible damage.
The veining in some marble will be adversely affected first. If these veined areas crumble easily, when probed with a blunt instrument, the stone may be damaged beyond repair. If the amount of veining is not too extensive, it may be saved by filling with a poly resin such as Akemi.
Perform several Patch Tests. Grind the stone and bring it up to a polish. If the stone polishes, the chance are it can be saved. CAUTION: make absolutely sure you have removed the re-crystallized layer entirely. We recommend starting with a 60 grit for most stones.
A FINAL WARNING: some of the companies have begun to eliminate the term "recrystallization" and are substituting "marble polishing" or "Vitrification". Be cautious.
Even if it carries the name of a nationally known chemical firm, check their claims. Ask to see the Material Safety Data Sheets. If the product contains fluorosilicates, do not use it. The hard sell "marketing" of these products is bringing us very close to an epidemic of severely damaged natural stone and terrazzo floors. A few clients (who simply did not know better), having just installed brand new marble floors, have witnessed the damage caused by re-crystallization first hand, at their expense.
We all know that there is no such thing as a totally "maintenance free" floor. Marble, granite, slate, whatever, all flooring must be maintained. The type of maintenance varies with use. Obviously, an entrance foyer of a residence requires a very different maintenance schedule than the lobby of a downtown high-rise office building or a major hotel. Maintenance can be done quite simply, using recommended products and procedures.
However, after extensive wear and tear over a long period of time a client may wish to have professional restoration work done. This can best be achieved by employing a responsible firm using traditional methods. These firms will look at an installation and provide a written estimate not only of the costs involved (usually figured on a square foot basis) but also of the materials that they plan to use. They should have their own equipment, and trained crews who have quality experience with the marble and other stone floors.
Updates:
Since 1990 I have conducted several vapor emission tests on marble and stone surfaces to determine if the re-crystallization process in fact does not allow stone to breathe. In my testing I have found that in most cases the re-crystallization process does in fact block vapor emission, therefore not allowing the stone to breathe.
Dr. Fred Hueston is a world renowned stone expert and has over 25 years of experience.
He serves as Technical Director for Boylan Stone Restoration in Oneida, NY.
Residential Natural Stone Counter Top Protection Plan
April 17th, 2008
by admin
We are sure that you have heard of companies that offer warranties on natural stone. But when you read the fine print they don’t really warranty anything
We would like to introduce The Oops Factor Plan. There is finally a plan offered by stone restoration specialists that can accommodate a customer’s needs. No more struggling to find a stone restoration service in the area. The peace of mind knowing that if the client has an issue, accident or just a basic maintenance plan to protect their investment. Our job is to restore natural stone. We are independent of the fabricators and installers. Our services specialize in post installation issues that might occur therefore representing a third party with the client. This relieves the designer, contractor, installer, and fabricator of any post installation issues as well as offering a unique customization plan for the client’s stone surface. The designer is able to offer a fully comprehensive plan to the client in order to enhance the sale. no more dealing withe that customer that ordered a hone finish and now claiming they order a polish finish.
Our members specialize in restoring, repairing, and refinishing a wide range of natural stone surfaces, including Granite, Natural Marble, Travertine and many other natural stone products from all over the world. The natural stone restoration specialists of the NSRA are highly trained and experienced. All work done by NSRA members is guaranteed.
NSRA members are kept up to date on the latest restoration techniques, the use state-of-the-art tools and use the finest materials for repairs.
We will follow up on service requests within 24 hours, provide a realistic estimate and schedule and make every effort to work quickly and efficiently. We make the extra effort to be timely and customer-friendly.
Our plan offers a percentage incentive to the designer for the presentation of the service. We provide all promotion materials as well as online or phone contact.
NSRA One Year Residential Natural Stone Protection Plan
Level One
A basic protection plan that covers the sealing of stone surface. This allows client unlimited service for sealing the stone along with one professional cleaning and evaluation of the stone.
Level Two
An enhanced plan that covers Level One as well as repairs of chips, scratches, etches and normal wear and tear. The plan also covers stain removal. The plan has certain restrictions relating to settling, intentional neglect or abuse or seam failure.
Level Three
Covers both Levels One and Two. This plan also includes customizing seams to make the seams less noticeable to match the surface as well as altering the surface ie: honed, polishing, satin, antiquing to the clients wishes. This plan covers all issues with the stone surface: settling, structural settling, seam failure, natural characteristics of the stone such as fissures water lines and color manipulations with the exception of intentional physical abuse or cracking the stone due to excessive weight.
These plans cost as little as $250 a year. To learn more abut these plans, contact your nearest
stone supplier or log on to www.nsraweb.com to find your nearest participating NSRA member.
The Ten Most common Stone Problems
Marble, granite, limestone and other decorative stone are durable materials that will last a life time. However, if not installed correctly or properly cared for, will experience problems that will shorten its life. The following ten problems are the most common in dealing with stone.
1. Loss of shine
The loss of the high polish on certain marble and granite can be attributed to wear. This is especially true of marble, since it is much softer then granite. The bottoms of ones shoe acts like sandpaper on a stone floor surface and over time will wear the polish off. To prevent excessive wear it is important to keep the floor dust mopped, place walk off mats at all entrances. To repair a worn stone surface, it will be necessary to have a professional hone and polish it.>
2. Etching
The dull spot created when liquids containing acids are spilled on marble is called etching. Marble and limestone etch very easily. Granite is more acid-resistance and will rarely etch. To prevent etching, avoid using cleaners and chemicals that contain acids. Bathroom cleaners, toilet bowl cleaners and lemon cleaners commonly contain acids. Certain drinks and foods contain acids and will also etch. Light etching can be removed with a little marble polishing powder. Deep etching will require resurfacing of the stone.
3. Staining
All stone surfaces can become stained very easily. Most foods, drinks, ink, oil and rust will stain marble. Once a stone becomes stained, it can be very difficult to remove. To prevent staining clean the spilled material as soon as possible. Blot the spill with a clean paper towel or cloth. If this does not remove the stain then a process called “poulticing” may be needed. To prevent staining, sealing the stone with a good quality penetrating Here to find a proven sealers.
4. Efflorescence
Efflorescence appears as a white powdery residue on the surface of the stone. It is a common condition on new stone installations or when the stone is exposed to a large quanity of water, such as flooding. This powder is a mineral salt from the setting bed. To remove efflorescence do not use water, buff the stone with a clean polishing or #0000 steel wool pad. The stone will continue to effloresce until it is completely dry. This drying process can take several days to as long as one year.
5. Spalling, Flaking & Pitting
If your stone is developing small pits or small pieces of stone are popping off the surface(spalling) then you have a problem. This condition is common on stone exposed to large amounts of water or when deicing salts are used for ice removal. Like efflorescence, mineral salts are the cause for spalling and pitting. Instead of the salts depositing on the surface(efflorescence) they deposit below the surface of the stone, causing pressure within the stone and therefore the stone spalls, flakes or pits. Unfortunately once a stone begins to spall it is almost impossible to repair. It is recommended that the stone be replaced.
6. Yellowing
There are several reasons why a stone will turn yellow: Embedded dirt and grime can give the stone a yellow, dingy look. Waxes and other coatings can yellow with age. Certain stones will naturally yellow with age. This is caused by oxidation of iron within the stone and especially problematic with white marbles.
If the yellowing is caused by dirt or wax build up, clean the stone with an alkaline cleaner or wax stripper. If the yellowing is the result of aged stone or iron oxidation, live with it, it is not coming out.
7. Uneven Tile-Lippage
Lippage is the term given to tiles that are set unevenly. In other words the edge of one tile is higher then the next. Lippage is the result of a poor installation. If the lippage is higher than the thickness of a nickel, it is considered excessive and the tile will have to be ground to flaten the floor. This will require the services of a professional stone refinishing contractor.
8. Cracks
Cracks in stone tiles can be caused by settling, poor installation, excessive vibration, especially if you live in California, etc.
Cracks can sometimes be repaired by filling with a color matched polyester or epoxy. Before a crack is repaired, it is wise to find out how and why the cracked occurred in the first place otherwise it may crack again.
9. White stun Marks
Stun marks appear as white marks on the surface of the stone and are common in certain types of marble. These stuns are the result of tiny explosions inside the crystal of the stone. Pin point pressures placed on the marble cause these marks. Women’s high heels or blunt pointed instruments are common reasons for stun marks.
Stun marks can be difficult to remove. Grinding and/or honing can reduce the number of stuns, but some travel through the entire thickness of the stone.
10. Water Rings/Spots
Water rings and spots are very common on marble table tops. These spots are hard water minerals such as calcium and magnesium. These minerals are left behind when the water evaporates leaving a ring or a spot. To remove these spots use a marble polishing powder. Deep spots may require honing. To prevent spots on counters and table tops, frequently apply a good stone paste wax.
Other Stone Problems
Many problems can occur with stone surfaces. The above ten are the most common. The following is a quick problem solving technique that will help identify other stone problems that might be encountered.
1. Identify the problem- Is it discolored, etched, cracked or what?
2. Cause of the problem- What happened to cause the problem? Identifying the cause will often lead to the solution.
3. Stone Type- Identify the stone type. Is it marble, granite, limestone, slate, etc.?
4. Installation- check the installation, is it installed properly?
5. Age- How long has the problem existed? Old problems are difficult to impossible to cure.
6. Maintenance Procedures- How is the stone being maintained? Could the maintenance or lack of, caused the problem?
7. Test the Solution- Perform a small test in an inconspicuous area to decide if your proposed cure will work effectively.
April 24th, 2008
by admin
Your kitchen backsplash can accent your kitchen and be both functional and be beautiful since it can be crafted from such easy to clean materials as ceramic and stainless steel which are two of the most popular types of kitchen backsplashes. Whether you are changing the look of the backsplash or adding one this can be a quick and easy way to brighten up an existing kitchen.
When selecting a backsplash, it is important to have it match the fixtures in your kitchen, but not the appliances, since they will change over time. The fixtures are more permanent items in the kitchen.
The most popular materials for kitchen backsplashes are ceramic or porcelain tiles, natural stone tiles, glass or metal tiles, and faux painting or wall paper.
Kitchen Backsplash Materials to Consider
When creating a kitchen backsplash consider these materials:
- Ceramic or porcelain tiles
- Natural stone tiles
- Glass tiles
- Metal tiles
- Faux painting or durable wall paper
- Stainless Steel
Tile Backsplashes
The nice thing about using tile as a backspash is that it comes is a huge variety of sizes, colors, textures and shapes. It is even possible to have custom painted tiles to match any theme of design. Also a tile backsplash can be easy to install, as well as easy to clean. Many design experts say that you should consider keeping it simple by choosing the same tile for your kitchen backsplash as you’ve chosen for the floor - just in a smaller size.
Natural Stone Tiles
The most popular natural stone tiles are marble and granite. Of the natural stones marble captures more detail than granite and since it is a softer stone it is good for applications like kitchen backsplashes.
Metal Tiles
This material can work very well for use in country kitchen style backsplashes. The tiles can be installed as the entire surface from counter to the bottom of the cabinets. Brushed aluminum tiles are good for modern or 1950’s retro design kitchens. Metal tiles should match the color of the faucets and lighting.
Glass Tiles
A new design trend in kitchen backspashes is glass. Textured glass tiles are usually installed between the cabinets and counters. Glass is easy to clean and scratch resistant.
Wallpapering Kitchen Backsplashes
Wallpapering kitchen backsplashes can dress up a kitchen will very little work especially with pre-pasted wallpaper which is a lot easier to apply. Also with a small area for the backsplash the job shouldn’t take very much time to complete. Make sure that you choose wallpaper that is washable so that spattering from cooking and splashes can be removed.
Stainless Steel Kitchen Backsplashes
Stainless steel backsplashes are coming back in style because they can create a modern streamlined look to your kitchen. These types of kitchen backsplashes can blend in well with stainless steel kitchen appliances like the stove, refrigerator and dishwasher. Other advantages to stainless steel kitchen backsplashes include being easy to clean and durability.
| EPA Confirms That Granite Countertops Pose No Significant Health Risk |
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New U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) statements reaffirm that granite countertops pose no significant health risk, discounting recent alarmist reports about the safety of granite countertops, said the Marble Institute of America, the nation's leading natural stone association.
The EPA issued its new statements late Friday, following media reports citing junk science and inconsistent testing results that created public concern about granite countertops as a source of radon gas.
"While natural minerals such as granite may occasionally emit radon gas, the levels of radon attributable to such sources are not typically high," the EPA statement said. "EPA believes the principal source of radon in homes is soil gas that is drawn indoors through a natural suction process.
"Granite is a natural mineral formed by earth's geology," the statement continues. "It is mined and used to produce commercial products such as countertops. It is possible for any granite sample to contain varying concentrations of uranium that can produce radon gas. Some granite used in countertops may contribute variably to indoor radon levels. However, EPA has no reliable data to conclude that types of granite used in countertops are significantly increasing indoor radon levels."
The statements can be found at the EPA website, at http://iaq.custhelp.com/cgi- bin/iaq.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=5103&p_created=1212758208&p_sid=Au 1wNF9j&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPSZwX3NvcnRfYnk9JnBfZ 3JpZHNvcnQ9JnBfcm93X2NudD0yMSwyMSZwX3Byb2RzPTM3MCZwX2NhdHM9JnBfcHY9MS4zNzAmcF9 jdj0mcF9zZWFyY2hfdHlwZT1hbnN3ZXJzLnNlYXJjaF9ubCZwX3BhZ2U9MQ**&p_li=&p_topview= 1
The EPA also issued a new statement on the presence of radiation in granite, which said: "Construction materials such as concrete, cinder blocks, bricks, and granite contain small amounts of radioactive materials that are found naturally in the materials used to make them."
That statement can be found at the EPA website, at http://www.epa.gov/radiation/sources/index.html#construction
Citing recent studies by university scientists and Consumer Reports, Jim Hogan, president of the MIA, said the new EPA statement confirms findings that have consistently shown granite countertops pose no health risk in the home.
"Every time researchers have applied rigorous scientific standards to testing, the results have found that granite countertops pose no risk," Hogan said. "Repeated studies have found that granite is safe. Unfortunately, some recent junk science being reported as fact only serves to panic the public, not inform it. Our goal is to end this fear mongering by facilitating the creation of a real scientific standard for testing granite countertops."
Two recent studies by researchers at the University of Akron and Consumer Reports found no grounds to fear granite countertops.
Consumer Reports, America's foremost consumer protection institute, recently conducted its own limited independent tests of granite countertops and found no evidence that granite countertops pose a health risk. In fact, none of the granite countertops tested by Consumer Reports were found to be emitting radon.
According to Consumer Reports, similar findings were recently generated by other well-conducted studies of granite countertops, and those studies found that, of a large number of countertops tested, only a few samples emitted minute levels of radon.
Dr. L.L. Chyi, who conducted the Akron study, said, "Radon in countertops is not an issue."
To eliminate confusion resulting from junk science or inconsistent testing, the MIA is working with scientists and other experts to establish universal standards for testing granite countertops for radon emissions. The goal is to build a scientific consensus around testing protocols so that all research can be done consistently.
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The Granite Choice
Follow this article starring granite:
By Kathy Barberic
While it's not written in stone, the popularity of granite (see image 1) surfaces in the home is soaring. You don't have to watch too many home-improvement shows on television or look at very many design and decorating books to know that granite is hot, if not hip.
Everything old is new again, and you can't get much older than granite, says James E. Casaccia Sr., president of Casaccia Marble and Granite in Fresno, Calif. "Granite is ancient," he says. "It's indestructible. It's beautiful." Casaccia has it in his house. On floors and countertops
Casaccia has been in the stone business since 1947. His father, the late Edward Casaccia, started the business, which specialized in headstones, in 1937.
Countertops and other products such as signs, decorative benches, tables, sculptures, mailboxes, bird baths, bowls and vases were added over the years. "And for the first time, our residential granite use has passed our headstone business," Casaccia says from behind his granite desk and computer table.
Business is booming. James Jr., who runs the residential side of the business, says he is not surprised at granite's popularity. "Once you live with the surface and see how it looks and how easy it is to care for, you understand its draw," he says, noting that he recently installed granite countertops in his own kitchen.
Larry Smith of Nelson Dye, remodeling specialists, says that yes, granite has grown in popularity, but it always has been used in homes.
"Heck, the cavemen probably had it on their countertops," he says with a laugh. "Granite used to be seen more as a high-end product for the wealthy. Today, we see granite used by more everyday people, people who live in tract homes as well as custom-built. It's gorgeous. Mother Nature knew what she was doing."
Trish Wilson agrees. When she and her husband, Bob, were selecting materials for the kitchen remodel of their 28-year-old tract home, they visited new tract-home models. "We found granite in some of them," she says. "We were trying to decide between Corian and granite. We wanted a solid surface. We chose the granite."
And, she says, they are not sorry. The granite countertops have been in for nine months. "We love them. Sometimes, we just stand back and look at them. Different colors shine depending on the light in the room. Best of all, when they are dirty, all I do is wipe them off. No scrubbing. No grout to clean. I have a wax the installer gave me. He said I could apply that once a year."
Information from the Building Stone Institute, a trade group that promotes building with stone, states that if you look closely at a piece of granite, you can see all of its crystals, depth and variation in color. If you view the same piece from a distance, you will see a homogeneous surface and a solid, even color.
Countertops in monochromatic shades of black, white and gray fit the latest high-tech and high-function kitchens, while warm earth tones are at home in traditional and country kitchens. Some of the granite colors exhibit "movement," or a patternlike wave of color.
Smith says a granite countertop with a lot of movement can well be the focal point, the showstopper, of a kitchen. "A countertop can be sedate if a pattern is more uniform. I think the Type A personality will pick the screamers."
The Building Stone Institute says granite is a worry-free surface that requires few special precautions. Most granite is impervious to scratches, staining and heat blistering or cracking. Hot pots and pans won't damage it. Warm water and a soft cloth can be used to clean up spills, and a semi-annual application of a non
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